Multinational Mountaineer

Thursday, June 18, 2015

Last Night In Ho Chi Minh City and Reflection

Our final day began in the rural Svay Reng province bright and early. We all knew it was going to be hard to say goodbye to Cambodia and the guys we so quickly became friends with. We once again ate a delicious breakfast over at the Kone Kmeng office of noodles and eggs and dried coffee packets. We said goodbye to Ya and Josh, who was heading back to the states that night. We took a bus ride back to Ho Chi Minh City, where we would enjoy one last night in Saigon. We took a long 3 hour bus ride to Ho Chi Minh City and realized the complexity of the border system. This was my first time ever crossing a border ever and I realized what a weird system it was. The Cambodian customs system was lax and permeable, while the Vietnamese one was extremely painful. As Ya had made clear, it was very easy for Vietnamese to come into Cambodia, but near impossible for a Cambodian like himself to make his way into Vietnam despite being from less than 12 km away from Vietnam.

We arrived in Saigon around 4 PM. When we arrived at our hotel, it was a sign of relief. We went from having lizards in our rooms, bad all-night karaoke singers, and a mess of dirty clothes all the time to staying at the Park Royal Hotel, arguably one of the nicest places I'd ever stayed, wearing the clothes I had made at Yen Dung in Hoi An. We were hanging out with the App Alumni again, Dylan, Andee, Luke, and Tyler, but this time it was different. We were in the nicest hotel in Saigon, with a broader knowledge about Southeast Asia then we were when we were drunk at the microbrewery the second night in Ho Chi Minh. We now had a new Asian flavor about us in our clothes, we'd adjusted the way we talked significantly, and started to look more like cooler, more sophisticated, more internationally savvy world travelers at that point. The Hotel served us some of the best meals and drinks we had the entire trip (My happy hour 2 for 1 mojitos were probably my favorite mojitos I've ever had). Also they served quality American food, which we were all starting to miss at this point.

We went into the main epicenter of Saigon (which definitely rivals any American "downtown", check it out) for some drinks. There was more young people taking selfies than I'd ever see n in my life, and I saw Kylie Jenner's poster off in the distance. "Are we in America" I thought to myself. We made our way to Broma, where the 1$ Tiger and Sapporo flowed like water. There was some of your classic young, modern professionals here, but they weren't all expats. Many of the bars here cater to what is becoming one of the major drivers of the HCMC economy, the 20 something Vietnamese young person. The views of the city were immaculate and the EDM music was awesome. We then made a tour through the skyscrapers of Saigon and their roof bars.

When I look at Saigon I see the way the world is changing. Places like the US and Europe are so completely saturated that now much of their populations are having to spread across the other developing parts of the world (South America, Asia, Australia) in search for new opportunities. Its obvious that those notions of "Land of Opportunity" are now changing. The new opportunity lies in the developing world that we were once a part of as a nation. Saigon is an example of that. It has blown up. Tons of visitors and new companies, have caused locals and foreign firms to respond in entrepreneurial ways, responding to the needs and creating solutions. The travelers have led to much more sophisticated, world-savvy salespeople at the market, a steady hotel industry, the revamping of tourist attractions, and entertainment that caters to all different segments. The rising middle class, expats and more educated population has led to nice housing, improvements in healthcare, a great modern cuisine, diverse industries from fashion to education, and with all the new stuff, there is still so much opportunity. I look at Svay Reng, not far over the border in Cambodia, and I see small progress, at so much slower of a rate than Saigon. There are significant infrastructure steps that need to take place first before any of the larger scale growth can occur. But nonetheless I have found as an American that I can look at the rest of the world with nothing but optimism. I have an innate ability as instilled in a young age to solve problems and to be creative. America fosters Entrepreneurial thinking and I think that is shown by how many young Americans are achieving this in other countries where they are snagging opportunities missed by the locals.

It isn't just Americans that are sparking the change however. I witnessed some of the greatest examples of Cambodian and Vietnamese ingenuity across multiple industries. It isn't just NGOs like Kone Kmeng or Streets International or the Artisans D'Ankgor that are moving the wheels in the economy. Its companies like Yen Dung or Zalora that are making the innovations. They are providing jobs, providing steady pay-checks, and ultimately moving it along as well. We need all of the above in order to keep Southeast Asia moving. The people in the US that think capitalism is evil need to take a look at how empowering people to solve their own problems is making places like Vietnam grow and change.

Americans need more perspective. We have it pretty damned great. Weekends off of work, high standard of living, programs to at least attempt to combat poverty. Vietnam and Cambodia changed my life. I now look at all the material goods I once craved with disgust. After all, T-shirts worth $20 dollars in the clearance aisle in TJ Maxx are worth $4 dollars in Vietnam. Why is that? What am I paying for in the US that is so different there. Well yes there is that shipping fee. Its made over there. But where the real waste comes into play is the dollars that go towards that expensive storefront, that piss-poor service at TJ Maxx, and the intellectual property of the brand name. In Vietnam, I saw a homeless man wearing a Dolce and Gabbana hat. I saw a homeless woman in Cambodia wearing Michael Kohrs. That is because those clothes we value so much over here, are actually worthless. They make them cheaply on a massive scale in Asia. The homeless man in Asia isn't in need of clothes, or shoes, because they are everywhere.

I thought about a resource that is valuable in Asia, but so wasted and disrespected here. I remember buying water for the same price I'd pay in the US. That means for Cambodians and Vietnamese, in reference to their purchasing power, it is far more expensive for them than us. That bottle of Dasani water is a precious resource. In the US, we have clean drinkable water in swimming pools in Scottsdale. In West Virginia, we have pristine mountain rivers receiving the runoff from industrial sites. In Svay Reng we saw people drinking dangerous water from wells right next to their outhouses. We saw people that look like they barely eat everyday. Indeed, in the US, we are free from wars despite playing such a large part in them. In America, we are free from genocide. Most of us are free from street violence. If there is any lesson that I can bring back with me is that there is a world of opportunity out there, but also that here in America, we are so fortunate to live the way we do. I learned so much about supply chains, customer relations, labor productivity, management, negotiation, bargaining, entrepreneurial opportunities, the necessities, and the luxuries, all in ways that further my general business knowledge. I also now think I better understand what it takes to change a place like West Virginia for the better, from a place that once exemplified cyclical poverty.

These were the gold chopsticks from Reaching Out! I loved coming back to the US with some very cool gifts and trinkets such as...

This stuff is amazing- I purchased this at the senteurs D'Angkor. It is a Cambodian specialty, lemongrass tea.

Chopsticks I purchased from the Artisans in Siem Reap

A lucky traditional necklace from rural Vietnam sold to me at the HCMC market

Faux-los (Fake Polos) were pretty easy to find

The kimono I now wear daily from Hoi An

Had some shoes made in Hoi An

Bulgari watch in Vietnam- $40

Making everyone think you paid $150- Priceless!

Bought this in Siem Reap, for two dollars! This would be 40 in the US!

The bamboo hat the Japanese woman gave me

Stunning Canvas painting from Ankgor Wat

Beautiful canvas from Siem Reep

West Virginia Worldwide: From country to cultured in one study abroad trip.

We had so many laughs. This group was hilarious and travelling together, we all bonded so much.

Cam and I get our cool-down on.

Svay Reng Province

Day 9

When we arrived in Svay Reng Province near the Vietnam border, I knew that now, more than ever, there was some chance that I might be able to make a difference. I felt like I had some sort of power, that because I was an innovative business student with some ideas and labor experience, I could make some kind of difference (cut your labor, improve efficiency, something). I was right, but not in that way at all. I instead found out that my "making a difference" would be from witnessing, understanding, processing, and ultimately communicating the message to others.

On our way down there we stopped at the main manufacturer of theses wells for Kone Kmeng and Wine to Water's collaboration. It all starts with these guys. Part of Kone Kmeng's system is this commitment to sustainability.

When Doc Hendley, founder of Wine to Water came to Appalachian State for the Global Opportunities conference he spoke to us on the subject of sustainability. Not in the sense that we frequently use it (environmental) but rather the same thinking applied to non-profits. He writes about the subject in his book, Wine To Water, as well. In order to make sure that these water sources are continuous, we must make sure they aren't reliant on charity, that they can be handled by the local people. A handout is temporary, inefficient, and breeds expectations of more handouts. At Wine To Water, and Kone Kmeng, essentially the goal is Cambodian water from Cambodian sources, for Cambodians, implemented by Cambodians. This starts on a supply chain level. Our first visit before crossing the border into the Svay Reng Province was the supplier of the terra cotta, which is used to filter the water. This was incredibly interesting to see another example of Cambodian manufacturing. Moreover, they were a LOCAL source. Because the import process in Cambodia is so difficult, having a local manufacturer was exceptional.

He and his wife were a couple from Oklahoma that were practicing medicine there and ultimately decided that God was calling them to move to Cambodia and really make a difference. What they were doing there was not only helping the people get wells, it was helping by providing Cambodians jobs. And supporting the Cambodian economy through buying local supplies. I applaud them because doing business in Cambodia is so difficult, and they were selfless enough to work for the betterment of mankind rather than insane profits. Often they had to cut into their small profit margins so they could train the locals on how to use the filters. This includes hygiene training, which some of these communities were lacking. There were a great many other universities providing varying degrees of assistance for the great cause such as NC State, Stanford, and Texas A&M. They too were visiting the site and helping in things that were science related, water testing and the like.

That evening we enjoyed teaching English to High School students and just being their friends. They were so much fun and so curious about us and wanted to share with us their passions, interests, hobbies, among other things. Outreach is key to both diplomacy and public relations for these non-profits and NGOs. There needs to be this sense of community in order for there to be a solid relationship.

Day 10

This morning in Svay Reng, we awoke to coffee. Lots and lots of coffee. We needed it badly. There were festivals in the streets all night that were blaring loud music and none of us could sleep. I woke up during the night to a lizard on my head. There was also that insomnia that comes with travelling abroad. None of us had slept much on the trip. We needed coffee.

We also were served a Cambodian breakfast of scrambled eggs and noodles with a side of sweet chili sauce. It was so filling and so delicious. The old Khmer lady couldn't understand our English, but she was happy to know that we loved it. We were happy that she was feeding us so well.

We rode out to the fields with Yah and the workers. The drive took us further out than anywhere we'd been in Southeast Asia so far. We arrived at a small community, living under a canopy of trees with cows and dogs. The village was full of young children and not that many adults in comparison. The women, being the ones who primarily work the kitchens and wells, were all ears listening to Yah provide them with training. Something the West often overlooks is sanitation, as it often is so engraved in us at a young age that we do not think twice about it. Here in Cambodia, where sanitation is not well-understood (they aren't educated in viruses or bacteria or chemicals like arsenic) and Yah had to explain that to them while also teaching them how to use the filters. I found this to be so mind-blowing: if they don't understand sanitation, what is the well providing? They will still get sick! We passed out the filters to each of the families, and it seems that most of the women, without any education were accepting what they'd learned despite not understanding the science. This mad me very happy.

We also made our way to two other well- sites. Each village/commune seemed to have a different standard of living level. The first village was far-behind the other two. They had their cow tied to a tree beside their well. They had so many children that were roaming all around. They had no usable farmland. The men were train smoking cigarettes despite their families looking like they were starving. There was so much to do. The last two seemed to be slightly better, particularly the last one, with their huge rice fields and cattle pastures. They seemed as though they were the most ready for success, if only transportation were easier. They were so far removed from any commercial sectors, so I imagine that selling meat is difficult. That is why the amount of cattle on the large pasture was so few.

Seeing these families made me realize how well we really have it in the US. While the bond and love between the family members was so strong, they really lacked the necessities for safe, healthy, prosperous lives. I think about Maslow's hierarchy of needs and I think to myself, if these guys cant satisfy those lower level needs, how can they think about fulfillment? That means that people are not going to be able to focus on things like starting a business, expanding, and developing. They are living day-to-day in many ways.

Day 11

Our last full day in Svay Reng began, again with a delicious breakfast of eggs and noodles and coffee. We then embarked on a trip to another site with Wine To Water and Kone Kmeng. This time, the site was not extremely far from the town. However, they were nowhere close to town in terms of living standards. They too, were rural people with minimal education and the same social problems (too many children to handle, sanitation issues, health risks, etc).

When we began digging this well, we were blown away by the Cambodian work ethic. I grew up in the Appalachian coal mining industry in West Virginia. That is all I could think about was the commonalities between the cultures. Lack of education, health issues, sanitation, need for development. All were the case for both places. Another commonality was the great work ethic. I certainly consider myself an excellent laborer. But these guys were doing circles around me. Perhaps they ate more eggs and noodles than I did. Perhaps it is their being more accustomed to the heat. Perhaps it is the fact that I was using a HOE INSTEAD OF A SHOVEL! Either way, they had such a great work ethic that certainly rivals any West Virginia laborer I know, and they don't go on strikes with the union or complain about not having specific tools (Let me reiterate they were using shovels). Their equipment looked primitive at first glance, but in actuality it was such a sophisticated drill machine. It was made with all Cambodian parts, by the men themselves, so it could be easily repaired. We take for granted the fact that in the US, we have so much access to "first world" machinery.

We also went to an elementary school that day. This and the digging were some of the best parts of the trip, being involved and working. We were tasked with teaching the kids how to brush their teeth, wash their hand and overall, how to stay clean and healthy. This is a key part of Kone Kmeng's recipe, and harkens back on that message of sustainability from Doc Hendley's speech, sustainability. For the wells and this huge leap towards progress to be successful, we needed to ensure that these kids and the mothers could really change their behaviors so they reduce the spread of diseases. Training them and teaching them allows for them to really fix the problem themselves rather than relying on constant charity work and builds that relationship between the organizations and the families. It inspires young dreamers to want to help in this same way and change their communities. It helps the community not feel like they are being handed anything, rather they are doing it themselves with proper training.

This man is an expert driller. I was so impressed from the perspective of someone who has been involved in labor industries for years.

Outreach to the high school

Kone Kmeng's suppliers

The terra cotta manufacturer

"Goofing Off" featuring Cam and Olivia

I made friends with Ou after drinking coffee everyday at the hotel. She is an ordinary Cambodian teen and is a great waitress. She attends a local High School and is my friend on Facebook.